Having successfully summitted Mount Kilimanjaro twice in 3 years, my sights have been set on attaining as many of the highest summits on all 7 continents.

Please read my blog “9 Summits on 7 Continents” for a list of these mountains and why it is 9 and not 7 😳

Next on my agenda post the African continent, was Europe. My approach to the order of mountains follows that I will first deal acclimatisation before I take on snow and ice, hence Kilimanjaro before Elbrus.

Elbrus is the highest point in Europe and is a peak in the Caucasian Mountain range in Southern Russia, on the border of Georgia.

Meeting Naz

I arranged this trip while I was preparing for my 2nd trip to Kili. As these things work, I settled on a date not knowing anyone else in the expedition party. When I returned from the Kili summit at the end of July 2016, I was surprised by a text message from someone back in Johannesburg. The person on the other side, identified herself as Naz, informed me that they were contacting me to arrange a meeting as we were 2 of the 5 team members from Johannesburg; the others hailing from Cape Town. For this blog, let’s call them the 3 Amigos (Dan, Pete and Justin) as they are very good friends back home. I informed Naz that I was in Tanzania and would be returning to SA soon and will arrange a meeting when I am back and rested.

The world moves in mysterious ways. As I had left my job to take a sabbatical to find my “centre” in May 2015, I planned to take my Mum’s ashes to Mt Kilimanjaro (Read blog titled “#2 – 2015 July, Kilimanjaro – Mum or Dust” for the background and my story on this trip). On my return and before I went off on my next trip, I was asked to explore potential job opportunities with a number of institutions. One of these was the Barclays Africa Group. I arrived for my interview with the executives of Barclays Africa Group, which as very promising and I made it clear that I could only take up a position with them in October 2015. With that resolved, I decided to contact Naz to arrange that meeting. Thinking that Naz was a guy, I was surprised to hear a female voice inform me that I was indeed speaking to Naz. I was just about to drive away from my meeting with Barclays when Naz informed me that she works at Barclays as well. Go figure.

Naz dropped every thing to make time to meet with me before I left. We had a great chat and agreed to prepare together for our trip to Elbrus in September. Naz came across as a very focused, dedicated person who knew what she wants. I took an immediate liking to her and her attitude to mountaineering.

We met a couple of times to check and compare gear, purchase missing gear and break in the gear as well. All prep behind us and nowhere to hide, I had one last family matter to take care of before I depart for Russia.

Chantel’s Wedding

Some background for context. Chantel’s father is my brother and Chantel’s mother is my wife’s sister. So 2 brothers married 2 sisters. Chantel’s parents are no longer together my Brother is in rehab.  Chantel lives and works in Johannesburg and is very close to Anisha (my wife) and me. She is the big sister to our 2 children (Dane and Geneva).

With my brother being indisposed, Chantel asked if I could walk her down the aisle and play the role that her Dad would have done. I agreed and hence, this became my priority before my trip to Russia. As it worked out, Chantel’s wedding was set for the weekend 5 September 2015 in Durban and I was scheduled to catch my flight to Russia on the 7th from Johannesburg.

I played my role, hopefully effectively (but let Chantel be the judge of that) and made my way back to Johannesburg. I was cutting things very fine at this point because on the 9th was my Wife’s birthday and I would be a world away from her on her day.

Moscow via Dubai

I packed and repacked my gear and got myself calmed down. It is critical that I work off a checklist because if you forget something back home, that’s where it will remain.

To the airport and flight to Dubai for our connecting flight to Moscow’s Domodedovo airport. At the connection gate, Naz and I meet Heinreich Ungerer, who is our group leader on this trip. Heinreich is part of the Adventure Dynamics team in Johannesburg, the operator in SA who arrange these trips. I rate these guys highly as expedition is in their blood and they are extremely knowledgeable about all things mountaineering. Sean Disney, the proprietor of Adventure Dynamics is an avid climber, is an authority on mountaineering and is a 7 Summiteer and completed the Mountaineers Grand Slam.

We caught our flight to Moscow and arrived to find our transfers arranged and in order. You don’t want to be left to your own devices in Moscow. On arrival at the hotel in Moscow, we met with the other team members, who came in on other flights on different days. We ate dinner together that evening and received our prep for the days to come.

Moscow to Mineralnye Vody

Our flight to Mineralyne Vody was pretty much uneventful. We got to Mineralyne Vody in the early afternoon, packed our luggage in the transfer vehicle; and this is when things got interesting.

The transfer vehicle is a throwback to the early 70s. The vehicle is a propane propelled vehicle that has a bladder to hold the gas. The fuel range is not large and we had to fill up en-route. To do this, everybody had to alight and sit aside as the gas is so unstable that any spark can ignite the fuel and bang, it’s all gone. I was very concerned about my gear all of the time that I sat outside the vehicle while it was being re-fuelled. Not the most important thing to have worried about, but hey I am human.

The road to the mountains is long and it takes us around 3 hours to get there. We pass small villages and start to see the mountainous countryside. The road start sweeping with sharp bends and heavy hills. The driver is late and takes a few chances around these bends. The quiet cabin with all the sleeping guests now becomes a bit more alive and courteous gestures are made about the driving. We were all afraid – point blank. These Russian drivers are rough, tough and crazy.

Day 1 – Cheget and Mt Cheget

We reach the Cheget area in the early evening and get checked in at the hotel. We take dinner at the hotel that night and we get to our rooms. Similar to our hotel in Moscow, Naz and I share a room. We unpack, get our gear ready for our acclimatisation hike up Mt Cheget tomorrow.

Sleep comes quick and I am glad because I am tired and would hate to have been up all night worrying about the hike.

Tomorrow comes quickly. We get dressed, take breakfast and get ready for our hike. Our hike today will include a ski lift ride to the ski station and then a hike to the top of Mt Cheget at 3,769m amsl. We meet at the ski station, put our backpacks on our chests and wrap the camera cords to our wrists, lest it falls while riding the ski lift.

At the ski station, a quick bathroom break and then it’s off on our acclimatisation hike to the top. The slope is gentle at first but gets extremely steep very quickly. We make good time and are at the top in no time. We hang around the top allowing as much time for our bodies to respond to the lower oxygen environment and then make our way back to the ski station.

Back in the village, we do lunch at one of the favourite restaurant and watering holes. The food is good and exactly what we need for this temperature and to supplement our effort for the next few days.

We spend the rest of the day taking pictures and walking the village. This is normally a popular ski resort but we are in the low season and the place is desolate. The locals entice us to buy their goods but I am not falling for this.

We spend the night at the hotel and the next day walk across to the local gear store for last minute requirements. I am short of water bottles (left them in Jhb – duh) and so purchase a few bottles. That done we pack our gear, back packs and duffel bags and leave a spare bag with civilian clothes back at the hotel.

Day 2 – The Barrels on Mt Elbrus (3700m amsl)

The local organizing party arranges a head guide and cook for the trip. The guide will assist us with our trek and the cook will support all climbing parties organised through her company.

We travel by car to the ski-lifts which will take us partly up the mountain. We need to take a further 2 ski-chairs to get to the Barrels. Now the Barrels are named such because they are essentially large oil barrels which have been converted to sleeping quarters. This will be our base camp for the next 4 days.

Anyway, into the first ski-car, with all the food and gear required for our duration on the mountain. Unlike on Mt Kilimanjaro, where porters do the heavy lifting, here we all have to pitch in to get all the food and gear to the Barrels. The first ski-car is easier to pack as it stops to allow packing before it is sent up. Getting to the first ski-station, we had to unpack all the food and gear; move them to the other side of the ski station to the ski-chairs, which is made to seat only 1 person. To get all of the gear and food to the top, 2 of us went ahead while the others packed the boxes and gear on each chair lift. We got off on the other end and hastily removed the parcels as the chairs came up. This process does not stop, so you got to get your timing right, otherwise the chair and its contents returns down to the start again.

This process done twice, we reached the Barrels and had to haul all of the boxes and gear a short distance to the base camp. The authorities are building another ski station at this height and have also brought in new accommodation in the form of empty cargo containers for guests to sleep in.

We are shown to our container which sleeps 10 guests but because we are only 5, we occupy the lower bunks and keep our gear on the bunks above us.

The camp has 1 toilet only and it is perched precariously on the edge. It also has a slope and the trick is to enter, turn around and squat, else you may just fall into the bogg. Unsavoury, I know.

The container is great as it blocks out the wind. It certainly is not warm, so we need to keep our thermals on. There is electricity in the cabin but only for a couple of hours each night.

Day 3 – Base Camp to Diesel Hut

I see the twin peaks of Mt Elbrus clearly today. The path to the top is clearly visible in the snow from the constant passage of the snow cats that take skiers to the top of the ski point.

My first foray on ice starts today. I’ve just recently purchased crampons and a new double plastic boot especially for this trip on ice. Firstly, the double plastic boot actually locks the ankle and prevents it from moving as in a normal boot. Adding the crampon to the mix makes it a very different walking experience. Now adding all of these and on ice became hilarious at times.

I soon got used to the boots and crampons. The guides shared specific walking styles for ice and the boots, which took time to learn. I am not sure that I fully applied all these techniques on my trek though but learned to appreciate them.

We ascend the first glacier and make our way to the first real slope passing Diesel Hut on our left and walk towards Pushtuhova Rocks. We stop short of the rock formation, take a break and return to camp. Good first day of acclimatisation.

Day 4 – Base Camp to Pushtuhova Rocks

Today we walk beyond Diesel Hut to the top of Pushtuhova Rocks. From a distance, one can make out what looks like a train track and a number 7 on the early slopes of the lesser mountain on Mt Elbrus. These formations are the rocks that we are walking to today. Although a little further than what we hiked on day 3, this is where the angle of the slope gets steep and with the loose snow underfoot, the walking is difficult.

I struggle and make it to the marker completely out of energy. The wind is high and cold but the view is spectacular. The 3 Amigos are strong and ascend much quicker than me. Naz has come to Elbrus with an injured knee and it is starting to impact her progress and she trails me. We all get to the marker, take a few pictures and return to base camp. The guides use these acclimatisation hikes to assess the capability of each climber. People respond very differently to altitude and have different walking styles, some of which are not elegant but get the job done and others which are both elegant and efficient. These have a dramatic impact on ones speed and efficiency in climbing. So as it stood, the 3 Amigos from Cape Town were by far the strongest, then me, then Naz.

When you are alone with your thoughts on a mountain, a lot of things go through your mind. One starts doubting one’s ability and start to reflect on little things that confirm why you would not make it. Naz found herself at this point. She reached out to me and all I asked her is to look for the real reason why she made the trip to Mt Elbrus in the first place. She had to dig deep and found the real reason because the next day she was back into the fold and understood that her abilities were different from others and she needed to pace herself and not break her will in trying to keep up with others.

Heinreich was also very well aware of this issue and arranged for a 3rd guide to accompany us to the summit. He figured that the 3 Amigos will keep up with the Russian guide, him and me will follow behind which leaves Naz with the 3rd guide.

Another huge decision that required taking was whether we would summit in the morning or wait another day. The weather was not looking good and it looked like a snow storm was on its way. Heinreich and the Russian guides discussed and debated this issue continuously through the day. Towards the end, he began to provide hourly updates on the weather. Despite the calls from the Russians to summit that night, Heinreich made the call to summit on our reserve day. This was a huge call because if we missed our main night and the weather was inclimate to summit on the reserve day, then we would not be able to summit and had to leave the mountain. You have 2 chances, so we had to make the best of it. Having agreed to skip the first summit night, we had all our eggs in one basket.

We get to bed feeling nervous. Sometime during the night the snow storm starts and it snows all night. Heinreich, you are the man. You read the conditions better than the locals and you were spot on.

Day 5 – Barrels

Today we wake up to a white out. Snow has fallen overnight and everything is covered in white soft snow. We can see that the skies are clearing and the sun starts to poke out. It is still expected to snow today with the weather clearing sometime wards the evening just in time for our summit attempt.

Heinreich decided to teach us novices a few fall arrest techniques. With the fresh snow fall, we had a few slopes that we could choose from to practice safely. What fun, throwing yourself over an edge and using the ice axe strategically to slow down and anchor in before digging in the crampons and standing up-right again. This reminded me of the grassy slopes back home on the farm where I grew up. I was a kid all over again.

After that tiring but exciting exercise, we get prepared for our summit attempt and get to bed. As usual, I am nervous, not too tired to sleep and struggle to find any sleep.

Day 6 – Pushtuhova Rocks to Elbrus Summit (5642m amsl)

03:00 comes too quickly.  I’ve not slept at all and here we are gearing up to summit Elbrus.

We get our gear on. The weather has cleared and we get to the snow cat to get to Pushtuhova Rocks, the highest point that we’ve hiked to. On these slopes the wind is high and cold. It is a clear night and the Moon and Stars are out in their splendour. The going is tough as we cut our way through the loose snow. It takes us a couple of hours to get to our first rest point. The sun is starting to rise and is splendid but I am so tired and it is so cold, that I do not get a chance to take a photo.

We reach the rest point, have a drink of water and eat some sustenance. As we leave, I feel fatigued, have no energy and am unable to figure out what is going on. I try to keep up with the 3 Amigos but they start to put some distance between them and me. I am struggling. Heinreich falls back to accompany me and to assist me to recover. He is tough on me as we are in a very precarious position. We are trekking on the side of the mountain and on a path so narrow that one has to be extra careful. I am losing sense of where I am and accidents happen at times like this. I agree to take 5 steps forward and stop for 3 big breaths and repeat the cycle until we are out of this slope. I don’t quite keep my side of the bargain at times and all I want to do is sit down and take a long break.

I am not sure where I find the power and courage but I dig deep and pull my weary body up the slope to the start of the traverse. In the distance, I see the 3 Amigos and feel that I will recover and catch up with them before  we are off the 1st mountain. Not a chance. I recover but not enough to catch them up and only see them as I enter the rest point at the saddle as they leave.

We are now on the 2nd mountain which goes straight up at a 50 degree angle. This is the tipping point for snow as it accumulates. I am theadered to Heinreich with a rope and we start our way up the slope. We cannot climb the 50 degree angle with a direct angle of attack and have to use the switch back routine to summit i.e. walk at a shallow angle to the mountain and switch and go the other way. It takes longer but is a lot more efficient on the legs and ankles.

We make better progress. I am getting my second wind and feel strong. Half way up the slope, the guides have put up fixed rope to assist novices with the lateral traverse as we swing across the slope to the other side. The going is slow as the novices have not had any training on ropes and are stuck. Heinreich asked if I am good to go unhooked i.e. bypass the rope on the top side. I agree and we set off. The snow is deep and as per our training, I ensure that I have at least 2 points of contact at all times on the mountain making use of the ice axe whenever a foot is lifted. It is monotonous but it’s the practice that will keep you alive in case you slip.

We overtake a number of climbers by not roping in. We make progress on the 3 Amigos and catch up with them just as we breach the top. From here the going is easier and we have a gentle slope to hike before the last bit of climb to the highest point.  Now fully recovered and feeling like a diesel train, I lead the way to the summit and we get there sans Naz. We are probably the 2nd group at the summit and have the summit to ourselves for 15 minutes. It is an all South African affair. We take our pictures and start our descent.

On our way down, we run into Naz. She is slow but steady and is in high spirits that she will make the summit.

Reaching the rope section we see a guide in trouble. The guide is off the fixed ropes with his client attached to his rope dangling further down the slope. The client is offering no assistance and is essentially sliding off the mountain with the guide attached. This all happens in slow motion. The guide is anchoring his heels into the snow and ice but the pair are slowing moving lower and lower towards a drop. Heinreich resolves to go to the assistance of the guide. The 3 Amigos are roped into the Russian guide and I was attached to Heinreich. When he leaves, I hook up with the 3 Amigos and have an important role to play as I am now the last line of defence should someone fall in front of me. My mind is working overtime now that I have other lives in my hands. I am careful and shout instructions for the others to dig their ice axes in deep. We make it to the traverse point and the pressure eases on the team.

Heinreich’s intervention prevents a serious episode on the mountain and it is what mountaineers do. We are back together again and there is no need for ropes here. We walk the traverse section and are back on the smaller mountain making our way down to the pick-up point. My feet are killing me and my knees are taking a pounding. I get to the slope and decide to slide down the mountain. Sticking my trekking poles under my armpits in a backwards direction, I sit on the snow and lift my feet to get some momentum. Using the trekking poles as a rudder, I make good time and am back at the pick up point just as the weather closes in.

I am so tired that as I sit down, I am overcome by sleep and doze off. Naz is still somewhere behind us and we cannot get hold of her guide on the radio. We make the call to descend by snow cat and send another snow cat further up the mountain to pick her up.

It is getting late and if we stick around any longer, we will have to spend tonight at the Barrels. No one is in this movie. We all are looking forward to a good nights rest in a proper bed and to have a proper shower

We reach camp and start packing our gear. There is a lot to do as our stuff have been laid out for a few days now. We also pack Naz’s gear as we get word that she is on her way down.

But alas, we hear that the ski lift from the Barrels to the next ski station is busted and will only be operational tomorrow. By this stage, we were dead set to leave the mountain so we made a plan to hitch a ride in a truck to the next ski station. Now if you remember the transfer vehicle from the airport to the hotel, this truck looked even older as if it survived WWII. Also remember that we are on a mountain. When Naz got to Camp, she was whisked directly into the back of the truck. We all sat at the back and the driver started the scary ride to the ski station with squealing and binding brakes. Boy was I scared. I was sure that I did not come all this way to summit Elbrus only to die in a truck on our way out. Anyway, the driver got us to the ski station safely and we got onto the ski lifts off the mountain.

Reaching the village we were all elated as the transfer vehicle was waiting for us. The expedition on a mountain is great but me for one cannot stay away from creature comforts. I enjoy a fresh towel, a hot shower,  a breakfast that looks like something from a magazine and not something from a packet.

Day 7 – Cheget Region

Spent the day milling around, recovering from our couple of days ordeal on the mountain. We walk around the village always looking for the summit of Mt Elbrus and reminisce about our trek to Europe’s highest point. We were treated to a special event that evening and the Russians showed us how to drink Vodka. Wow.

Days 8 and 9 are spent transferring from Cheget to Moscow, taking in some sights in Moscow and returning to SA via Dubai. Happy to be be home and amongst my loved ones again. I’ve made some solid friends that will last forever because we shared a deep moment together where our fears were naked for everyone to see. The best was that everyone in our group summitted successfully with no injuries to report

 

Conclusion

It is off to work again to beef up the coffers and to start my mental preparations for the Americas. My job at Barclays is waiting for me and I will assess when I need to free myself for the summit of the South and North American mountains. Mt Aconcagua and Mt Denali, please expect me, but please be nice 🤕🙏